BEAUTY TIPS

Friday, September 9, 2011

OIL PROPERTIES IN SOAPS

Properties of oils for saponification

There are many oils used in saponification today and they are usually plant oils. We use a combination of liquid oils (unsaturated) along with solid oils (saturated) , to make a wonderful hard soap. Below is a list of oils that can be used and their properties.

Avocado oil

Avocado oil has a bright green color and is a rich oil that is good for soap, creams and lotions. It is excellent on all types of hair. It is high in vitamin A, D & E thus increasing its shelf life. It suits all skin types but is very good for dry and overly sensitive skin. It is also known to help eczema and psoriasis yet hair loss. It is used in the production of soap up to 30%.

Almond oil (sweet)

This oil is popular for use in massage and general skin care. A few drops in face masks help with dryness. It is nourishing and is suitable for all skin types. It is highly moisturizing, gives a firm lather when used in the production of soap. It can be added to soaps, lotions, creams, body butters, etc. It is used in soaps up to 5% of total oils. It is added to the additives towards the end of the soap making process,

Verbena oil

It is particularly good for premature aging, dry and sensitive skin. It is highly moisturizing, gives a firm lather when used in the production of soap. Very good for all skin types. It is used in soaps up to 5% of the total oils. It goes into the additives towards the end of the saponification process.

Balsamic oil

Balsam oil is soaked in a good oil, which does not spoil easily, like olive oil, and acquires a rose red colour. It is used to relieve muscle pain and in skin rashes. It is an anti-inflammatory oil that is soothing and useful in wounds. It is used in additives, towards the end of saponification.

Virgin, extra virgin or seed oil

This oil is very good on the skin, it is soothing and emollient. It makes a little lather in the soap when used alone, but we can add a little castor oil to make bigger bubbles that last longer. It's great for washing clothes or dishes. It has few cleaning properties, compared to coconut oil. It is used up to 100% in soap and becomes white and hard. This soap is called Castile soap.

Olive oil dregs

Olive oil dregs are the best for making soap because they are thick like butter, have many more cleaning properties than virgin olive oil or seed oil. It creates a soap with a rich creamy lather, suitable for skin, wool and face, unlike the best quality olive oil soap which is only for washing clothes and dishes. Olive dregs only soap is for all hair and skin types but is ideal for babies and people with very dry skin. The dregs can be used alone and it is not necessary to add coconut oil or castor oil to increase the lather of the soap.

Sunflower oil (organic)

It is an emollient oil extracted from sunflower seeds. Rich in fatty acids, it is a good base for massage oils, creams, lotions and natural soap. It has a short life, so when we buy it we should use it immediately. Very good for all skin types. It is used in additives, towards the end of soaping in only small quantities.

Butter cocoa

It is wonderful in soaps and makes them harder. It has a natural chocolate smell that imparts a nice fragrance. It has emollient and moisturizing properties. Very good for normal dry skin. It is used in additives, towards the end of the soaping process in only small amounts up to 15% of the total oils.

Calendula oil

This oil is made by soaking calendula petals in a good carrier oil such as olive or sweet almond. It has a light yellow colour. It is historically known for treating wounds, dry and mature skin and for its eczema and soothing properties. It is mild and suitable for all skin types, especially sensitive baby skin. It is used in the additives, towards the end of the soaping process.

Shea Butter

It is wonderful for lotions, creams and lip balms for its moisturizing properties. Unprocessed shea butter is more penetrating than processed butter because it has not been chemically treated and its vitamins and nutrients have not been stripped away. Use from 5% to 15% for saponification. Used in additives, towards the end of saponification.

Castor oil

This is an oil that can be added to enhance the lather of the soap. It suits all skin types but especially dry skin. It moisturizes the skin and is very good in wool soaps and for skin care. Its alone if used will make very soft and clear soap, so it is used in small amounts. It can also be used in a small amount in lip butter, bath butters, etc.

Coconut oil

This is one of the soaping oils that give natural lather to the soap. It is almost essential for soap, as it has more cleaning properties than olive oil. It is natural and very good for the skin and suits all types. Natural coconut oil is used in soaps, creams and lotions etc. It can be used up to 30% in the total amount of oils.

Carrot oil

This is a rich golden coloured oil obtained from carrots. Carrot oil is high in Vitamin A and Bata-Carotene making it a very therapeutic oil for the face. It suits all skin types but more so for dry and mature skin.

Beeswax

Used in the production of soaps, creams, ointments and lotions. If we use beeswax from a producer, it has a natural honey smell and also has natural healing properties that bees impart to it. We can use it up to 20% of the total oils in your soap for harder soaps.

Jojoba oil

Jojoba oil is not an oil, but a liquid wax, which is why it is not as oily as other oils. ' It has been used for many years in skin care products because of its healing power. It can help with acne and pimples and is wonderful for normal, dry and mature skin.

Sesame Oil

It is said to be good for psoriasis, eczema, rheumatism, and arthritis. It is used as 10% in total oils because it gives a very soft soap.

Palm oil

This oil is very similar to coconut oil and has almost the same properties. It gives hard, white, excellent mild soap. It is used up to 50% of the oils.

RECIPE FOR SOAP

Athanasia 10:06 AM 0 Comments

White odorless soap - Simple recipe for beginners

Ingredients

oils

930 g coconut oil

294 g cocoa butter

86 g of ground beeswax (protects the skin and makes a hard soap)

170 g sesame oil

1275 g olive oil (not virgin)

water & sodium hydroxide

425 g NaOH

1142 g distilled water

additives

56 g almond oil

56 g apricot oil

60 g Essential oil

The amounts I give are for several bars of soap, divide all amounts by 3 to make 1/3 of the amount

1. Prepare the water*-sodium NaOH caustic soda mixture.

We take all safety precautions (gloves, long shirt, mask and don't breathe in the vapors!). We measure the quantities exactly. Put the distilled water in a plastic basin that can withstand high heat and add the sodium hydroxide, little by little, stirring with a plastic or wooden spoon. Never pour water into the caustic potash and never use hot water!!! As you stir the water temperature will rise and the water will become clear.

Allow the solution to cool and come to room temperature.

*In case our recipe uses juice or any other liquid, substitute the water with the other liquid. The procedure with a liquid other than water is different (read each recipe carefully) and is not used by beginners.

*If using water, use distilled water which is very soft and has no minerals. Mineral or tap water are excluded.

*If we want our soap to be harder we can add a little salt to the mixture of water and caustic soda after mixing them, not before. Say 2 to 4 tablespoons in my recipes. The salt will not only make the soap harder, but it will save us from extra beating with the hand blender.

*The water and caustic soda mixture can be made in the evening and left overnight, so I believe the soap will be better.

2. Prepare the oil mixture.

In a large pot, put the oils and put it on a very low heat so that the oils mix perfectly.

3. Check the temperature of oil mixture and water-NaOH mixture.

It is important that the two mixtures are at the same temperature from 28 to 43 degrees Celsius. We usually prefer 28 degrees Celsius to avoid losing the oil components from the high temperature. We put a thermometer on each mixture and depending on whether the temperature needs to go up or down, we put it in a basin of hot water or cold water. This way we will eventually get the temperature to be the same in both mixtures to mix them.

4. Combine the oils with the water-NaOH (gloves-mask are worn until the end of the process).

Slowly pour the water-NaOH into the oils (without splashing) and stir gently with a spoon. Stir continuously. You can continue stirring for about an hour or so. But if we get a hand blender we will mix for about 10 minutes. We will stop mixing when the mixture starts to thicken and change color and when we take a little bit with the ladle and pour it over the mixture a line should form which will be slow to erase, this means that our soap is leaving traces. At this step the mixture is 80% soaped.

5. Add the additives

When we see that our soap is leaving "traces", we can add the additives and mix well with a ladle and not with a blender because our mixture will quickly thicken and we won't be able to put it into the molds.

Additives are herbs, scrapings, oats, essential oils and others that are sensitive to high temperatures and are always added at the end.

6. Pour the mixture into the moulds

In the moulds beforehand we need to put petroleum jelly (so that the soap comes out easily when it's done). Pour it into the moulds with a deep ladle. Be careful it is still caustic!!! (If you use pvc tubes on the bottom put rap and tie some rubber band).

7. Cover the soap and let it sit for 24-48 hours.

When the molds are full I wrap them very well with lots of warm cloth. And I don't shake them again for 24 to 48 hours until the soap is done.

8. I take the soap out of the molds.

After 24 or 48 hours the soap will still be warm. Try taking it out of the mold if it doesn't come out leave it in the freezer for a while.

9. Let the soap set for 1 to 2 months.

Let the pieces of soap air harden. As time goes on it gets whiter and a white powder builds up on it. The longer it stands the better it gets.

*This powder will probably not appear at all in soaps that we have made with a high overfill and used a small amount of sodium hydroxide.

10. PH control.

You can check the PH of your soap with some special PH papers. A good soap should have 7-9 Ph. Initially soaps have 9 to 10 Ph, but with time they drop to 7 to 8.

Sunday, September 4, 2011

HYDRATING CREAM Conditioner

Athanasia 10:28 AM 0 Comments

MOISTURIZING SOFTENING CREAM

Beeswax 30g

Almond oil 120ml

Grape seed oil 120ml

Water 4 spoons

Vitamin E one capsule 1000mg

Lavender essential oil 15 drops

Tea-tree oil 2 drops

Aloe jelly 2 spoons

Heat the candle with the oils and the water with the aloe on a low heat. Beat the oils with a mixer and let them cool down a little.Then mix the two mixtures together with the mixer, now pour the essential oils and E, beat well and store in a glass jar.